1995 Dodge Ram 1500 - Meyer EZ Classic Install and ST-7.5 Rebuild
1995 Dodge Ram 1500 install. Customer brought
new old stock mounting carton. He
also brought a new old stock SAF carton to rebuild the plow.
All set. Just need to adjust the lights and put the Lift Frame Pins in.
Plow tripped back passed Trip Stops. Good thing
the customer has a new SAF
carton. This also has a 38" A Frame on it now, which is for the old Custom Classic
Mounts. It will be replaced with the new 34" A Frame.
One Trip Return Stop was extended with a small plate welded onto it.
The other Trip Return Stop was cut off for some reason.
Uneven Cutting Edge wear, referred to as
"smiling", because it curls up on the ends
like it is smiling.
Other side even more wear. This is due to
plowing with the blade angled to the right
more than the left, and is somewhat normal. The leading edge gets the most wear.
This is why Xtendors are great. They stop this problem. With uneven edge wear this
plow will never scrape the pavement clean.
A closer look at the uneven wear, and the end Cutting Edge Bolt missing.
Time to change the SAF. No messing around, just
grab a sawzall, it makes the job
easier if you get the SAF out of the way and then work on driving out the Pivot Pin
Just need to remove the stub now. Usually much
easier said than done. Though it is
typically easier to get the stub out of the Moldboard Rib compared to the Sector.
We use a new (old style no grease fitting)
Pivot Pin as a driver to push out the stub.
This usually involves A LOT of heat from a torch. These two came out with just a
few light taps, luckily!
Flex Hone to get all the rust out of the Pivot
Tubes. This is a MUST in my opinion.
Heavy pitting makes driving the new Pivot Pins in a harder job, and it also wedges
them in there, which defeats the purpose of greasing them. You don't want them to
be stuck in the Moldboard Rib sleeve, or the Sector sleeve. You want them to be
able to rotate and float when installed. IF they jam in one side, when the plow trips
they will wear the sleeve on the other half. Pivot Pins that were kept greased are A
LOT cheaper and easier to replace than either of the Pivot Tubes.
Honing out the Pivot Tubes. I also want to
point out that the Sector Pivot Tubes must
be honed too. Between the powdercoat and any small bits of welding spatter they can
make driving in the new Pivot Pins hard, and they will also cause the pin to bind in
the sleeve. In this case, I had to use a 3/4" drill bit in the Sector Sleeves to knock
off some spatter. ALWAYS dry fit the pins by hand and make sure they go all the
way in smoothly with no binding. THEN grease them when installing them by coating
them and the sleeves with grease, and THEN grease them using the grease fittings.
We replace the Cotter Pins that comes with the
Pivot Pins with 1/4" Lynch Pins.
This makes greasing the Pivot Pins much easier. You can use the Cotter pins, but
then you will need a tool to remove them every time you want to grease the Pivot
Pins. With the Lynch Pins greasing takes a couple of minutes, max.
Lucas "Red & Tacky" Grease for the Pivot Pins.
More grease on the center pivot area prior to assembly.
Anti-Seize on the Trip Spring Eyes.
All done. I had to note that the Grease
Fittings face the outside. They have come in
before with the fittings facing the inside, which makes it impossible to ever grease
SAF Carton = Sector A Frame Carton. Here is
what is included.
Take note the King Bolt is installed from the bottom up.
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