To start, and most don't think about this, I knew I could gain about 2" of drop in the Universal Clevis on the Jeep to help compensate for the lift, IF I used a 1/2 Ton Universal Clevis. The 19943 1/2 Ton Clevis is what we use on half ton trucks to run a Drive Pro Single Pull 7.5 plow. It is a taller Clevis to allow (what you would expect to be) for the taller ride height of the 1/2 Ton versus a Jeep Wrangler, or other small vehicle, to attain what Meyer thinks the Clevis height should be. I don't like to contradict Meyer, but their clevis height is wrong. It is too low.





As you can see, Meyer says 9.5". That is too low on the truck side. I have found that 11" is PERFECT. Keep in mind the Clevis height has to be the same on ALL vehicles, because it has nothing to do with the vehicle, it has to do with the geometry of the plow itself. The A Frame of the plow MUST be level when the plow is attached and ready to plow. If it is too low on the truck side, when angled, the leading end will be off the ground. IF it is too high on the truck side, the trailing end will be off the ground at full angle.

Like so:

THIS is why you can't put a plow on a Jeep Wrangler (or a truck) with a lift, unless you correct the geometry.

So here is the 2005 Lifted Jeep Wrangler - New Meyer Drive Pro 6' 8" install



Like it says on the picture, it has a 3" lift and 33" tires. The bottom of the stock Wrangler TJ bumper (which is about the same as the bottom of the frame) is 24" to the ground. This is just for reference, for those seeking information on what they would need to do with their lifted Jeep Wrangler TJ based on the frame height. You will see how much it varies between these three lifted Jeep Wrangler TJ's with the same size lift, and same size tires.



The mount is installed.



You can see the center of the notch in the Clevis is at 14". We need to make new ears for the plow A Frame that are 3" taller, to compensate.



Test fit an old style Lift Frame, so we can hang the A Frame and make sure it is level. We will also convert all three of these Drive Pro plows to EZ Plus, removing the Single Pull system. This will make it MUCH easier to mount and dismount the plow. In case you are wondering (and MANY ask) how far away the Lift Frame is from the stock TJ bumper, it is 5.5" away.



Test fit the A frame.



The ears are not pretty. They are not symmetrical. They work perfectly as designed. The gussets will help make sure the ears stay where they belong. Not worth spending the extra time to grind the ears nice and pretty. 3/4" plate does not grind quickly. Added lift stop extensions. Fan helping dry the paint so I can reassemble. Notched the back PA Ram clevises so I can put the elbows on top instead of out the sides of the rams. Will gain some hose length too.



Test fit. All is well. Should have only made the ears 3.5" tall, but oh well. The edge will wear soon enough. Plus, when the plow is down, when the Jeep accelerates, the front end will rise slightly. Had to swap a 33" hose for a 39" hose on the passenger side.



Plug mounted with custom bracket and stainless hardware. I also centered the license plate, it was driving me crazy being off center.



All set. You can see the yellow handle MDII pins I used for the EZ Plus conversion.



You an see a few of the additional mods here. The blue masking tape is to remind me to tighten the back bolts. I added stacking stop extensions, and the third extension is so the Lift Frame can sit on top ofthe Crankstand like it does stock. With the EZ Plus conversion, if it is a little low it will not be a problem. With the standard Drive Pro Single Pull, it WILL be a problem as the Clevis will hit the cross bar when trying to mount the plow.



All set.

2002 Lifted Jeep Wrangler TJ - used Meyer Drive Pro 6'8" install



Well here we go. This Jeep has a 3" lift, and 33" tires, but the bottom of the frame measures 22-3/8" to the ground, unlike the 2005 before it, that measured 24" to the ground.



The Clevis ended up at about 11-3/4". Just a tad too much, so we had to make new ears 2" taller (hindsight is 20/20).



Mount done, plug mounted with custom bracket and stainless hardware.



This was an older Drive Pro with the short lived "Jack Leg" that I could not cut off and throw away fast enough. It was replaced by the Crankstand that we first installed, and Meyer made it standard the next year.



All set.





EZ Plus conversion, and since it has the E-58H, and it was lower than the 2005 before it, we did not have to use longer hoses, or add extensions to the stops or Lift Frame.

2000 Lifted Jeep Wrangler TJ - used plow install

This is the last of 3 TJ's. The first the ears I made were 4" taller. I could have gotten away with 3" taller. The second I made the ears 2" taller, and I think he may have gotten by with the mount being 1" too high. Hindsight is 20/20. I am basing this on the measurement from the bottom of the Jeep frame to the ground. The first one was 24". The second one about 22". This one is about 22". I am going to try the plow on the mount and see how off level the A Frame is. The first one the notch in the clevis was around 14". The second one the notch in the clevis was 11-3/4". One odd thing is all of these Jeeps supposedly have a 3" lift and 33" tires, yet the first one was 2" higher. The TJ used 31" tires stock. These three all had/have 33" tires. So there is 1.5" in height from the tires + the lift.



This one the 33" tires only measure 31".



The Clevis is at 11-1/2". I did not have to make new ears for this one. With the E-72 and lower height, the hoses were long enough too.



Frame right at 22".



Mount done. Plug mounted on custom bracket with stainless hardware.



Plow on, EZ PLus conversion done.



All set.

So the moral of the story is not all lifts are created equal, nor are tires. Also, you can put a plow on a lifted Jeep Wrangler or truck IF you compensate, and correct the geometry of the plow. I'd like to point out I would not be comfortable fabricating or modifying a mount. Since in this case I could use the 19943 Meyer 1/2 ton Drive Pro Universal Clevis, all I had to do was modify the plow, and I am 110% comfortable modifying plows. Any modifications I make are always stronger than the original design. Better to be safe than sorry and liabel. The only other Meyer Drive Pro 6'8" plow I modified was for a lifted Toyota Tacoma, and it has been in use for about 7 years with no problem. That customer plows dirt and gravel drives, so I know the plow is taking a beating every time it goes out, with no problems. He actually broke a cutting edge a few years ago, but no problem with the new ears I fabricated and welded onto the plow.