Meyer Plow Harness Socket Mounting

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Added 3-24-19

Meyer Plow
22691 Harness Socket Mounting

I never thought to make this section before. I don't know why, it just never occurred to me. I have posted dozens of pictures of completed installs, you can see how I mount the socket, but never added a section just for mounting the Socket. There is a difference in available mounting locations based on few key factors; first E-58H or E-72, V/70; and is it the original 22691 Universal Harness, or the newer replacement 22691S. The S Stands for "Split". The power and ground wires leave the back of the socket in a separate loom compared to the original 22691. The original 22691 was more difficult to run because it was one harness with everything in it. So if the battery was on the passenger side firewall (like a 2008 GM 2500 truck) the whole harness needed to be ran to the passenger side to connect to the battery, then the control harness had to be ran over the motor and into the cab. Maybe there is an easier way in some cases by using a hole on the passenger side, or making a hole in the passenger side firewall, it is just usually easier to work on the driver side. Trucks today with their huge center consoles (Ram fror instance) make it hard enough to install, getting a wire from the passenger side footwell over to the driver's side could be an hour alone. As far as the E-72 and V Plows, the Plow Side Harness (22692) is not long enough because the plow side harnesses were; 1) The E-72 harness is just an E-58H harness, it works with both, however the E-58H the motor was lower and more to the center, so the plug will reach further to the left on an E-58H vs. an E-72. The V-70, the motor is in the same location as the E-72, the passenger side. Originally the V-70 was mounted on the driver's side, so the plug pretty much had to go on that side or in the center. It is too tight of a stretch to go to the driver side with a V-70.

If you install this kit as the diagram shows, it will stick out too far and look ridiculous. Most vehicles will not need the actual 19607 bracket. 19609 is used twice as much alone. This was the very first 22691 I installed on a Tacoma back in 2009.

	SO much neater tucked in like on the left.

So this was just a primer on not necessarily using the Bracket itself. I have developed brackets for most common vehicles over the years and I will share them with you later on down this page. Sometimes it is easy to use the bracket, and just drill a hole in the top of it to go to a hole in the bottom lip of the bumper. Sometimes it needs to be extended.

In this example below, if this Jeep Wrangler JK was going to get a 22691 Universal Harness installed, the entire harness would have to be ran to the passenger side, to the battery, then the control harness over the engine and into the cabin. But then another wire needs to be ran over the engine anyway to get to the fuse box because there is no power source in the cabin. The fuse box is right below the battery in this picture.

2012 Jeep Wrangler Meyer plow wiring harness 22691

Now Meyer gives you WAY too much harness for a Jeep, the same 22691 harness would be used on an F-500 just to put it in perspective. There is A LOT of slack to hide under a Jeep. Having the power and ground wires separate does make the harness more flexible. Another reason the 22691S is better is because it has a replaceable end. The 22691 Repair End (M08059) is just a new socket with flip up door (no the door is not sold separately) whereas the 22691S (M08423) Repair End is a whole new socket and the main harness plugs into the back of the socket, secured with a nut, so you get new pins as well. Below, first is 22691.

Meyer plow 22691

Then we have the 22691S

Meyer plow 22691S Universal Harness

I know it is not easy to see so I highlighted the split. Being split opens up all possibilities for mounting.

Some of these were my early ideas for mounting, and some more current. There were time constraints on some before I figured out that rushing benefits no one. IF an install takes me 2 days, and it is 100%, and that person never HAS to come back here for anything, then mission accomplished. I can count on one had how many came back for a simple problem with their new plow. Circumstances change, knowledge is gained, and where I mounted the plug bracket changes occasionally. Originally, the 22691 Universal Harness was one piece. The WHOLE thing had to be fed through whatever hole or location you had in mind for the plug (check out the Jeep page). Well if it did not work out for some reason (there always has to be a "first" one to learn from) then it was a real problem having to move it. When 22691S came out it was a dream come true. I know I am in the minority when it comes to mounting the plug tastefully. It is not always possible in every case, but I try. I use stainless steel hardware. I know that you only get to drill a hole once in a customer's vehicle, and you can't "put it back" after you do, so you must choose wisely. I use strip caulk to seal any holes I drill on the front and back side, again even the back side gets stainless hardware. Some of the brackets on these pages were 2 years ago, and some were 10 years ago. Now the bracket will only be needed for used plows as all current Meyer plows use the SOS. Time is also something I gave away mounting some of these. Especially the first time on a vehicle I had never done before. Some of these plugs were over two hours to figure out where and how to mount, and make the bracket. Some involved a second bracket, and some were two brackets fabbed and no bracket used in the end. The fabbed brackets did find new homes no problem. Any that go under the bumper are easier than any that go through the bumper. The newer 22691S is much easier to work with than the original 22691. The E-72 opens up more space for plug mounting, but also limits mounting it on the driver's side as it must be close enough for the harness to reach, but not in the way of the blue handle pin on that side. The 22691S is easier in that it can be "made smaller". You can remove the socket from the end of the harness to run the harness. With 22691 the socket was part of the harness and could not be removed.

Now that we started out with a little primer, here are the individual pages showing how and where to mount the Socket on various vehicles by make:

Chevy / GMC
2002 Chevy 2500HD
2003 Chevy 1500
2003 Chevy 2500HD
2009 Chevy 2500HD
2011 Chevy 2500HD
2011 Chevy Colorado
2017 Chevy 2500HD
2004 GMC 2500HD
2006 GMC Canyon
2010 GMC 3500HD
2011 GMC 2500HD
2014 GMC 2500HD
Dodge - Ram / Ford
2003 Dodge Ram 2500HD
2007 Dodge Ram 1500
2008 Dodge Ram 1500
2013 Dodge Ram 2500HD
2013 Dodge Ram 2500HD
2014 Dodge Ram 2500HD
2014 Dodge Ram 3500HD SRW
2015 Dodge Ram 5500HD
2016 Dodge Ram 3500 SRW
2017 Dodge Ram 2500HD
2017 Dodge Ram 3500HD
2017 Dodge Ram 5500HD
Ford
2003 Ford Explorer
2004 Ford F-150
2010 Ford F-250
2013 Ford F-550
2015 Ford F-250
2015 Ford F-350
2017 Ford F-150
2017 Ford F-250
Jeep / Toyota
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
1999 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon TJ
2007 Jeep Wrangler JK
2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2010 Jeep Liberty
2011 Jeep Wrangler Sport
2012 Jeep Wrangler JK
2013 Jeep Wrangler Moab
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport
2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport
2016 Jeep Wrangler Willys Edition
2016 Jeep Wrangler Anniversary Edition
Toyota
2014 Tundra
2006 Tacoma
2009 Tacoma
2011 Tacoma
2012 Tacoma
2012 Tacoma
2015 Tacoma
2016 Tacoma

I want to stress that I have not done "every" vehicle. These seem to be the most popular that come through my door, some not so popular as well. Some I will never do again, they were THAT much of a PITA. If it has a painted plastic bumper cover on it, run! I will add specifics to each run of body style or bumper for each group of vehicles. I will also add where you CANNOT mount the socket. The respective brackets will be for sale on this site and in our online store soon. I made a batch, ned to blast and paint.

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Author: Chuck Smith