Meyer Super V 2 plow Smith Brothers Services, LLC



Added 3-2-13

1998 Dodge Ram 1500

Page 4

This is a problem ALL of these trucks have. Simple "fix" for this. Might not be a
perfect fix, but, it is the best option short of replacing the seat cushion.

3 minutes to remove 4 screws, and the cushion is off.

Look at the tag on the bottom. It does not say LEFT, or have an L On it. That is
because the frame and cushion are the same for both sides. It is only the covering
that is different in that the inside edge is vinyl instead of cloth.

Passenger side cushion on driver's side. Now the vinyl is on the outside. Looks
MUCH better. Just need to clean the rubbed area from the passenger side seat belt.
Well, I also need trim and a new handle, but the cushion is not ripped with foam
hanging out anymore! Plus, we all know the passenger seat sees less use, so the
seat cushion is like new compared to the old one that is now on the passenger side.
Total swap time, less than a 1/2 hour.

Decided to pull the third brake light to polish it. Felt like sandpaper. It was blocked by
the cap from just about day one. Figured a bulb might be blown. Didn't expect to find
a hole in one.

CHMSL installed with stainless screws instead of the rusty steel ones I took out.
Made a new harness for the Whelen light. The cheesy 16ga cig lighter cord would
get hot after about 10 - 15 minutes of use. Should not have that problem with the
10ga harness. I installed a nice socket for it too so I don't have to run the cord into
the cab.

Alternator wire had some green on the lug at the alternator. Decided to upgrade it to
2ga, and reroute it it to the PDC.

Wire was ran under two brackets putting it closer to the intake manifold

The wire ran under the heater hose and into the loom with the ground wire. The way
I ran it now it is 3" further away from the exhaust manifold compared to before. I'll be
installing a new ground wire soon and routing it away from the manifold.

Going in for the Crank Sensor and Ignition Coil. Had a crank no start, no codes. Did not fire
on starting fluid, two days sitting, fired right up, so now the fun starts.

Not wanting to strip the Phillips head screws the morons at Dodge decided to use, I
tried the Makita real slow. Stripped both. Drilled the heads off, unscrewed what was
left and replaced the screws with new BOLTS.

"Topside Creeper". Pulled the forklift over and grabbed a scrap of plywood.

2 HOURS later, the Crank Sensor was out. What a job. If I could meet the guy that thought it was a good idea to put it where Dodge did I would not shake his hand, I would kick him in the nuts. When he finally caught his breath, I would kick him in the nuts again! For those who might have to do this job, a 13mm will work on the passenger side bolt, so will a 1/4" (yes, not Metric) Hex bit will work too. The Driver's side, there is a post sticking out of the back of the cylinder head that makes it almost impossible to get a socket on it. Got it to move with a socket, then used a 1/4" Hex bit. The trans dipstick is the biggest problem. The sensor goes into a rubber grommet. A little silicone dielectric grease made getting it in easier. I had to use a pry bar through the back of the wheel well to pry out the original one.

No fun laying here for two hours fighting with the Crank Sensor getting it out. Even
less fun fighting with the new one for an hour and a half getting it in. Instead of a bolt
to the back of the cylinder head, Dodge secured the trans dipstick with one of the
bellhousing bolts.

Right behind the back of the wheel well liner look up at the top of the motor.....

You can almost make out the socket stuck on the driver's side bolt. I knocked it off
with a piece of threaded rod. It was jammed up against that post that sticks out of
the back of the cylinder head.

You can just make out the clean new Crank Sensor bracket.

What a job. If you have this done at a shop, it is well worth the price to not have to do it yourself!!

There will be much more to add as this is a work in progress.


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