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Added 3-2-13
1998 Dodge Ram 1500
Page 4
This is a problem ALL of these trucks have. Simple "fix" for
this. Might not be a
perfect fix, but, it is the best option short of replacing the seat cushion.
3 minutes to remove 4 screws, and the cushion is off.
Look at the tag on the bottom. It does not say LEFT, or have an L On it. That is
because the frame and cushion are the same for both sides. It is only the
covering
that is different in that the inside edge is vinyl instead of cloth.
Passenger side cushion on driver's side. Now the vinyl is on the outside. Looks
MUCH better. Just need to clean the rubbed area from the passenger side seat
belt.
Well, I also need trim and a new handle, but the cushion is not ripped with foam
hanging out anymore! Plus, we all know the passenger seat sees less use, so the
seat cushion is like new compared to the old one that is now on the passenger
side.
Total swap time, less than a 1/2 hour.
Decided to pull the third brake light to polish it. Felt like sandpaper. It was
blocked by
the cap from just about day one. Figured a bulb might be blown. Didn't expect to
find
a hole in one.
CHMSL installed with stainless screws instead of the rusty steel ones I took
out.
Made a new harness for the Whelen light. The cheesy 16ga cig lighter cord would
get hot after about 10 - 15 minutes of use. Should not have that problem with
the
10ga harness. I installed a nice socket for it too so I don't have to run the
cord into
the cab.
Alternator wire had some green on the lug at the alternator. Decided to upgrade
it to
2ga, and reroute it it to the PDC.
Wire was ran under two brackets putting it closer to the intake manifold
The wire ran under the heater hose and into the loom with the ground wire. The
way
I ran it now it is 3" further away from the exhaust manifold compared to before.
I'll be
installing a new ground wire soon and routing it away from the manifold.
Going in for the Crank Sensor and Ignition Coil. Had a crank no start, no codes.
Did not fire
on starting fluid, two days sitting, fired right up, so now the fun starts.
Not wanting to strip the Phillips head screws the morons at Dodge decided to
use, I
tried the Makita real slow. Stripped both. Drilled the heads off, unscrewed what
was
left and replaced the screws with new BOLTS.
"Topside Creeper". Pulled the forklift over and grabbed a scrap of plywood.
2 HOURS later, the Crank Sensor was out. What a job. If
I could meet the guy that thought it was a good idea to put it where Dodge did I
would not shake his hand, I would kick him in the nuts. When he finally caught
his breath, I would kick him in the nuts again! For those who might have to do
this job, a 13mm will work on the passenger side bolt, so will a 1/4" (yes, not
Metric) Hex bit will work too. The Driver's
side, there is a post sticking out of the back of the cylinder head that makes
it almost impossible to get a socket on it. Got it to move with a socket, then
used a 1/4" Hex bit. The trans dipstick is the biggest problem. The sensor goes
into a rubber grommet. A little silicone dielectric grease made getting it in
easier. I had to use a pry bar through the back of the wheel well to pry out the
original one.
No fun laying here for two hours fighting with the Crank Sensor getting it out.
Even
less fun fighting with the new one for an hour and a half getting it in. Instead
of a bolt
to the back of the cylinder head, Dodge secured the trans dipstick with one of
the
bellhousing bolts.
Right behind the back of the wheel well liner look up at the top of the
motor.....
You can almost make out the socket stuck on the driver's side bolt. I knocked it
off
with a piece of threaded rod. It was jammed up against that post that sticks out
of
the back of the cylinder head.
You can just make out the clean new Crank Sensor bracket.
What a job. If you have this done at a shop, it is well worth
the price to not have to do it yourself!!
There
will be much more to add as this is a work in progress.
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 Page 1 |
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1998 Dodge Ram 1500 Page 4 |
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