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Smith Brothers Services, LLC |
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PLOW PARTS |
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TRUCK PARTS |
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Added 1-16-11
Meyer Plow Frequently Asked Questions
Well I get A LOT of emails asking for help with a variety of Meyer plow problems, and questions. I thought maybe sharing them here would benefit others, so here they are. This is just a couple of months worth, I will add more as time allows.
December 2010 & January 2011
Questions & Answers -
Question:
I got a 95 F350 with a 9ft meyers with an E-57 pump on it. During this last big
storm be all got on the east coast, my touchpad all of a sudden showed up that
the overload light was on and the plow would not respond to anything. I replaced
the solenoid for the plow motor but nothing happened. I did get the plow to lift
up once after the truck sat for overnight. Then I got it to angle left but will
not do anything else from there. I ordered two new coils from you guys to
install on it to see if that fixes the issue but maybe this is something you
guys would know exactly what it is and could shed some light on it for me.
I also wanted to compliment you guys on your online part store. Everything I
will ever need for my plow you guys have and response is very fast. Thank you
again.
S
Answer:
Not sure if I spoke to you today, maybe I did? I had a very similar call. IF I
did, I am just going to say what I said earlier on the phone. The overload light
comes on when the touchpad senses a high amp draw either on one of the coils (A,
B, or C) or the motor solenoid under the hood. It could be that one of these is
failing, or that there is a bad connection, or the wire could be overheated
either in the harness or the actual lead on the coil. Black overheated wire
creates more resistance, which increases the amp draw. If you hit down and the
red light comes on, then check the black wire to the A Coil. If the red light
comes on when raising, check the red wire going to the B coil. If the red light
comes on when angling right, check the green wire going to the C coil. If the
red light comes on when angling left, check the white wire on the motor solenoid
under the hood.
IF the red light comes on with all the functions except lower, I would cut the
ring terminal off the white wire at the motor solenoid, and strip the wire to
put a new end on, and make sure that wire is not black inside the insulation.
Finally, if all these things check out OK, and the touchpad is the old square
flat face (no raised buttons) and the buttons say U, D, L, R on them, the
touchpad is likely on its way out.
Hope the info helps.
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
First off, thanks for putting together such a great site with so much
information, it has helped quite a bit already. Now for my question- I have a
E-47 with a 9 ft blade from a municipal set up that was new in 88. The pump will
raise the plow with assistance (snow pile or even by hand) and hold but can not
lift the plow on its own any more. The angle rams work properly and hold with
out any assistance. Any guidance you coud provide would be greatly appreciated
and the parts will be ordered thru your site immediately after.
If it is easier for you please feel free to call xxxxxxxxxx any time day or
night.
Thanks in advance
W
Answer:
W,
Without a pressure gauge, it is impossible to say what is going on. It sounds
like a warn out pump, but it could also be a bad pump relief valve, or be out of
adjustment.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Hi,
Thanks for the rebuild kit & online info. I have a question & a comment:
1. I pressed my wiper in but left out the metal washer/spacer under
it. (it bent when I pryed the old wiper out). Is it ok to leave it
that way? It seems like it would be. There is no mention of it on your
site or in the Meyer PDF.
2. The fill plug receiver was a different thread on my pump. But It
was rusty & seized, so I drilled it out and tapped it for pipe thread
to match the new part. Did Meyer change that thread at some point? I
think my year is 1983.
-J
Answer:
J,
There is no metal washer under the wiper. My guess is the old wiper broke into
two pieces. That is why there is no mention of a washer anywhere.
Yes, on the older units the hole in the top cap was smaller. No harm in making
it larger like the newer units.
Thanks,
~Chuck
---------------------------------------
Question:
Hi Chuck,
You rebuilt an E47 for me about a month ago. I don't want to take up any of your time with
something that is probably just me being paranoid but-I am hearing a strange
"groaning" noise during the last couple inches of lift-never on the angle cycle.
The problem is intermittent-I did unhook the chain once while it was doing it
and it still made the noise. I noticed it during our first storm a little over a
week ago-along with the noise it would go really slow the last couple of inches.
Couple of days later the motor died. I bought and installed a new Meyer OEM
motor and upgraded the power cable to 2 gauge. Speed is even better than
ever-its just that groaning noise once and awhile. Voltage at the battery
with/without load is good along with voltage reaching the motor. I'm sure it's
just me being paranoid-but don't want to be harming my like new pump and motor.
If you have any ideas let me know. I also started a thread on lets talk snow to
see if any of the guys have any ideas. Thanks for your time and really
appreciate the great job with the pump-it works FANTASTIC and faster than
ever-best of all no more freezing fluid. Thanks again.
J
Answer:
J,
It is not unusual. That is when the pump is working the hardest, and the relief
valve opens on the pump as it maxes out. Angling takes no real force as there is
no resistance. Lifting does, and at the top of the stroke is the most
resistance. You can also try spraying the top mounting bolt and bottom mounting
bolt with Fluid Film or spray grease, as it may be adding to the noise as the
pump pivots on the bolts with the full load on it. I would not worry about it.
The pump was putting out 1650 psi, right on spec. I was a little surprised that
the motor died, as the amp draw was good here on the stand. Not sure on the age
of the motor but that pump is a 1981 model year.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: mushy rams
Message: I have a Meyer E-47. drained old fluid and replaced with new. Also
drained rams and replaced all couplers with pin type. no leaks. The rams
movement hesitates and seems slow now and the plow can now be moved easily side
to side by hand. Also looses angle now when plowing. i have cycled the plow up,
down and side to side numerous times to circulate fluid and bleed any air. Fluid
level is good. Any help would be appreiated.
S
Answer:
S,
Mushy = air in rams. You need to get the back end of the angle rams higher than
the front end. IF the fittings on the angle rams come out the side it is even
harder to get it out. Our driveway here at the shop is a pretty steep hill. We
back the trucks up the hill, and stop on the hill, and angle the plows back and
forth to get the air out. Worst case I had was a Ford Ranger, I had to drive it
up on a set of ramps to get the back of the rams high enough to bleed the air
out.
~Chuck
------------------------------------------
Question:
I have a E-60 unit that when plowing straight ahead the blade angles left by
itself. don't know what to try next. I have bought numerous parts from your
place including a new valve block not using yet. Any help will be greatly
appreciated! thanks D
Answer:
D,
If you changed the Pilot Check Valve, and the Crossover Valve, checked the C
Valve O Rings (or replaced the C Valve) and still have the problem, replacing
the PA Block is the answer. The C Check Valve is installed in the PA Block, and
a steel ball is pressed into the cavity to seal it. So it is not serviceable.
That is the reason the PA Block would need to be replaced.
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
I am plowing out of Atlantic City,NJ. My plow is about 5yrs old. I have it
serviced every year at seasons end. This year it has been acting very strange.
The plow motor will continue to run after the signal has stopped. I will get a
�red overload� signal on the Electro-Touch Pad. For some reason the starter
solenoid is sticking open and continues to feed the pump power. I have replaced
almost everything on the plow. New solenoid, new joystick harness, new power
cables, A,B,C solenoids have been tested, cross over relief valve serviced and
the inline fuses are good. My mechanic and I are completely stumped. The problem
only occurs every two or three angles. Sometimes when it occurs the plow will
kick to the left but not always. It is very frustrating. Any tips you can
provide would be greatly appreciated.
T
Answer:
T,
You say you have a touchpad, but then you say you replaced the joystick harness.
Which controller do you have? If it is the touchpad, it sounds like the touchpad
is bad.
~Chuck
More:
I have the Touch pad. I was troubleshooting by removing the touch pad and
harness. I actually resolved the issue today. There is an issue with some truck
alternator/batteries sending 13/14 volts to the solenoid. Meyers has a small
diode that can be attached to the solenoid (with the white controller wire) and
then grounded into the chassis. The diode dissipates the extra volts into the
ground.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Answer:
The diode has been standard with all controllers for over a year. We have
installed them on all new installs. At service school, we were told that the
diode prevents the motor from sending power back to the controller and frying
it, beause as the motor winds down after running, it is possible for it to send
a spike back to the controller. Interesting that it solved your problem.
~Chuck
A response from the Meyer Technical Service Department on this issue:
"The diode is to prevent power from backfeeding to the controller. I do not
understand how this would cure his problem."
--------------------------------------
Question:
Hello
I recently got an old snow plow (Meyer ST-78) and am having some complications
in more than one area. First the pump, the motor works but is very loud and
pulls a ton of power from the battery to work. I would assume it either needs
some serious work or replaced??? Also is leaking fluid near the bottom where the
release lever is. Also having troubles attaching to truck. I have an old Ford
F150 1978. The plow looks like someone custom welded the hook up mounts for the
plow and for the bumper. The problem is the truck has a lift on it and when put
on the brackets on the truck had to be lengthened. All was fine until a heavy
snow and when used bent the brackets. Is there any actual mount still sold for a
model this old and if not any great ideas. I live near Boise, ID and was
wondering if there is a dealer in the area. Any help would be great.
Thank You
P
Answer:
P,
The ST-78 was made to fit 3 vehicles.... The Jeep CJ, the International Scout,
and the early 70's Bronco. Meyer did not make any other mounts for the ST-78. So
you are on your own as far as having it on a 1978 F-150. It is too small for the
150, so there is no mount available from Meyer for it.
Guessing that since you are talking about a leak near the release lever it is a
T-5 or T-6 pump, which has been obsolete since the early 1970's and there are NO
parts available. The motor however is just an old Delco starter motor, which I
am guessing could be rebuilt, or if brought to an electric motor shop, possibly
replaced. They were available in both 6 volt and 12 volt, too. Your money would
be better spent on a rebuilt E-47 to replace the T series. Parts are plentiful
and readily available for the E-47.
~Chuck
-------------------------------------------
Rebuilding the E-47 for a spare. Actually lucky to get one pretty clean and rust
free. Before ordering a master kit, the ram appears to have a leather like seal
(not yet removed) I'm concerned about transport drop in the ram, does the 15456
completely change this out? And does the master kit include the internal O rings
for the B and C cartridges? Did not see solenoids for the 3/8" A cartridge.
Present one appears swelled inside and cracked. thanks
Regards,
D
Answer:
D,
The M15254 E-47 Basic Seal Kit includes the lift ram packing cup (it is not
leather).
The only difference between the M15254 E-47 Basic Seal Kit and the M15456 E-47
Master Seal Kit is the Master Seal Kit comes with all the valve O Rings, (A, B,
C, Crossover) and the Pump Shaft Seal.
IF you are searching for an A solenoid, you will not find it because it is
called a coil. You want the 3/8" A Coil.
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104788
Thanks,
~Chuck
----------------------------------
Question:
Hello Smith Brothers -
Thank you for compiling all the information you have on the website. It
is most helpful.
I have a 1994 Chevy Cheynne 2500 regular cab long box which I've owned
for 6 years now. It hasn't been used for plowing for a while and I would
like to swap over the plow onto my 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular Cab
Short Box.
As far as I can tell, it is an EZ Classic Mount. I installed a new motor
wiring harness and new Slick Stick a few years ago, as well as
overhauling the motor and replacing the arms. I also installed Night
Sabre lights with the appropriate modules for the 1994.
The only other complicated factor is that the motor mount (hoop-looking
thing) is frozen/rusted solid into the mount that went onto the frame.
There is no getting it out, save for torching or cutting.
I have done some research about what is needed for the 2001 GMC and I
know I need part number 17138 for the mounts to the frame. The big
question I am trying to resolve is whether I can just install the old
frame mechanism WITH the frozen/rusted hoop mount for the motor onto the
truck, or whether I will have to buy a new hoop and mount that goes onto
the 17138.
Thank you for any advice you may have, I will gladly support your
business because of the time, care and energy you have put into your
informative website. I have always liked Meyer plows and have worked on
the E47H so many times, I know it like the back of my hand.
I am near Albany, NY
B
Answer:
B,
The tubular lift frame is universal. A new one is $550. Once the mount is off
the truck it is a little easier to get it out. I tried once with a 2.5 ton floor
jack, and no luck. Then I switched to a 20 ton bottle jack and was able to get
the frame to pull out a 1/2" at a time. Move to the other side, 1/2" move back
to the other side, etc. I did not need a torch. I can imagine some would need a
torch to warm the tubes. I have had other customers that cut slits in the tubes
with a 4" angle grinder, and they got the lift frame out that way.
The Nite Saber headlight modules are universal, only the headlight adapters are
headlight bulb specific. The control harness, power and ground are universal. So
you need to get the lift frame out, buy headlight adapters, and the 17138
mounting carton to make it work. If you can't find a used 17138, new is $850.
~Chuck
--------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: E60 Rebuild
Message: Hi, i'm having problems with my plow, it wont go down. and when i try
and raise it, fluid comes out at the shaft. What parts do i need to rebuild
this? Will the manuals I printed from Meyers site walk me through the rebuild?
Thanks for you help. D
Answer:
D,
The A Valve controls down. It could be bad. As far as not going up and fluid
leaking out at the top, it sounds like the Lift Ram Packing is shot. All you
would need is an E-60 Basic Seal Kit. The manual has step by step rebuilding
instructions with pictures. Only you can decide if it is something you want to
tackle yourself.
~Chuck
-------------------------------
Question:
Dear sir,
My husband has been searching high and low for a company like yours. Your
website is quite impressive. We have a brand new 2010 Ford F150 4x4 with the
extended cab and the larger engine. Either my husband, J, or
myself will call first thing in the morning; but for now here are my questions:
1) What plow do you recommend? (I saw it mentioned that based on the size of the
bed perhaps a 7'5 or an 8' would be appropriate)
2) Is the $350 cash back offer still in effect on the 7'6?
3) How soon can we make this happen? (In other words...please tell me you have
the plows in stock)
4) What do we need to do to get started?
I really look forward to hearing from you...
Thanks,
J
Answer:
J,
The Meyer Drive Pro 7'6 is the only acceptable plow for your F-150.
The Cash Back offer expired 12-10-10.
Your truck must have a 4300# Front GAWR, and have the Ford plow prep package for
us to install a plow on it. IF it does not have a plow prep package, and a 4300#
front axle, we will not install a plow on it.
We do have a couple of the Drive Pro 7'6 plows in stock, but we do not have the
mount in stock, that would need to be ordered from Meyer by us.
If your truck meets the above requirements, we would need a $1000 deposit to
order the mount and schedule the install. We are currently booked for the next
two weeks.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------------
Question:
I have a 2500 HD Crew cab short box. I currently have a Daniels Pull Plow (not
installed) and would like to see if you would install the plow along with a 8 '
Lot Pro that I would purchase through you. I use my truck during the week and
would like to know if it is possible to schedule an install over the weekend.
It is best to email me back. The phones ring off the hook at the office this
time of year.
A
Answer:
A,
We can install the Daniels, but we too are very busy. I am booked all of this
week, and all of next week. If it snows this weekend, we are going to be even
more overbooked. We do not have any plows in stock, we would need to order the
Lot Pro 8 for you. We only work a 1/2 day on Saturday, and just the Lot Pro
alone is a full day to install. The pull plow will add probably another 1/2 day.
This time of year is 90% repairs, and 10% installs, and the repairs come in
daily. We are a small shop with only two of us doing the installs and repairs,
and I am one of them, so I constantly get pulled away for other things. If I
ordered a plow today it would be at least a week until it came in, and we need
$2000 down before we order a plow, and we do not take deposits over the phone.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
I was wondering exactly how far out your work is. I have a E 46 that raised when
it wasn't hooked to the chain on the blade. I replaced all the seals and this
time the ram wont even lift up. Does this sound like the pump to you cause I can
hear the motor come on. I wanted to know what it was so I can put it correctly
in the box when I send it to you.
Answer:
If it is really an E-46 (no power angle) and you put all new seals in it, and
the pump check valve is installed properly, then all it could be is the pump. It
might be the pump relief valve that is bad, or the adjustment of it, or the pump
could just be worn out.
Pumps we are still doing almost daily. We have an install this week, and one
next week, but we are still doing pumps as they come in almost every day. We are
not behind really, but if we get snow, that will change. We are still fixing
plows that broke last weekend. An E-46 is a pretty quick rebuild, due to the
lack of a PA Block on it.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
Subject: plow for tacoma
Message: I have a 2003 Tacoma 4x4 X-cab SR5. I'm trying to get a plow for it.
I've looked on the Meyer site, but it doesn't look like they have something to
fit my truck. Can someone call me and let me know if this is possible? I'm in NJ
and would be willing to come in a get one ASAP as it's supposed to show this
coming weekend. M
Answer:
M,
Meyer does not make a plow to fit your Tacoma. They begin with the 2005 Tacoma.
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
Subject: E-60
Message: I have an E-60 lift that has alot of wear on the lower pump mounting
bolt. The pump doesn't sit straight anymore. Do you guys have a way of putting a
bushing in there so I don't have to replace the whole pump base ???
Answer:
E,
No we do not. The base is cast aluminum, and adding a bushing not made out of
aluminum would cause severe galvanic corrosion associated with dissimilar
metals. In other words, it would cause it to rot off completely. You can put
never seize or grease on it to help prevent further wear.
~Chuck
---------------------------
Question:
I sent a Meyer E47 pump via UPS to have it rebuilt. The pump worked most of the
time except when I needed it the most, usually when it gets really cold. I got
tired of freezing my fingers trying to repair it every year. I can pay for the
repairs with my wife's PayPal account. Please contact me if you have any
questions.
Thanks,
A
Answer:
A,
Your pump is done. It is a 1986 Model Year. The highest pressure we could get
out of it is 1400psi. Spec is 1650 +/- 50psi. The motor is drawing 130 amps
@1400psi. Reject amp draw is 230 amps, so you are way under. Average is around
190. Yours is low due to the lower than normal pump output pressure. 1400 is not
bad, you probably didn't even notice it. It can be expected with a pump that is
24 years old.
We replaced: The Crossover Valve, Filters, Pump Shaft Seal, A Coil & A Valve,
and the Guide Bushing in the top cap. We also installed a Basic Seal Kit and
Hardware Kit. All functions work properly. It passed the leak down test. It is
ready to be shipped back. I will send a detailed invoice to this e mail address,
followed by a Pay Pal invoice.
It can ship back to you on Monday. Between the Holidays and the blizzard we got
here, it took a little longer than expected to get it done.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-------------------------
Question:
Hello, My name is E, i had brought down my e47 pump for repair. Its still not
lifting the plow. I will call monday morning. Thanks!
Answer:
E,
It sounds like you have a truckside problem. The pump worked perfectly on the
test stand here. The test stand uses two 500# springs, so it is the same as
lifting 1000# which is heavier than any plow Meyer makes. What controller do you
have? Toggle switches? Slik Stik single lever controller (joystick)? Touchpad?
~Chuck
More:
Just got it going within last hour. Had a cracked wire and replaced it.
Everything works fine. Thanks for the reply
Answer:
Glad to hear you got it working. Plow on!
~Chuck
--------------------------
Question:
Good day, just orderd my second set of seals for my ST angle ram because i
screwed the first set up so bad!!
What is the secret to puttin the seal in the nut ?
W
Answer:
W,
We are waiting on 20 sets to come in. Sold the last set in stock earlier today.
No real secret. Put the (wiper) seal in the nut, then put it on the shaft. Make
sure there are no high spots around the bolt hole in the end of the shaft. Put a
little grease on the shaft and slide it on. Tighten the nut by hand, and give it
a little snug with a pipe wrench. Do NOT overtighten the nut or you will lock
the ram in place. Only make the nut tight enough for the ram not to leak.
Kudos to you for getting the nuts off in the first place. 99% of the time we
shatter the nuts trying to get them loose.
~Chuck
--------------------
Question:
Subject: meyers sump base
Message: Is your online part number 15682 base in stock and ready to ship?
Answer:
Yes, but I need to update the description because the last 12 we got from Meyer
last week have no drain plug on the bottom.
~Chuck
(Note - they also have no filters or drain plugs in them anymore, just empty
threaded holes)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: problems wiht meyer E60H
Message: Do you have any suggestions? I have a meyer plow E60H that I have
been having problem pulling alot of current and dropping battery voltage
thus stalling the truck. I have done the following last season and start to
this season. New alternator on Chevy 1993 K2500. Have been told that is 75 amp
output. New pump motor went from single post to two post. New A,B,C valves
and coils, new angle cylinders on plow. Have checked and redone connections
to the coils. The problem seems to occur mainly when raising the plow. Any
suggestion?
Thankyou for your assitance.
Answer:
Did you have the pump output pressure checked and set? How old is the
battery? Did you have it load tested?
When raising, the motor typically pulls around 180 amps or so. When it tops
out, the amp draw is usually around 200 amps, depending on pump pressure.
The higher the pump pressure setting, the more amps it pulls, expecially when
it tops out. Reject on motors is 230 amps. Anything under that is
acceptable. You should have the largest battery you can fit (CCA) 1000CCA or
1100CCA
if you can get them. Running Genuine Meyer M-1 fluid helps too, as it is
thinner than aftermarket fluid. ATF performs horribly at low temperatures,
which is why it is not recommended.
Even though you got the new alternator, your battery must be in top
condition, because every time you raise the plow it is like starting the truck.
If
the battery is run down, the alternator cannot keep up with the load.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Had no power to pad upon hookup, my mech had just welded jeep frame,
replaced starter n batt, and installed the 240 spreader u sold me. SOO i
figured maybe he cut sumthing w/o knowing. Motor coil on inside
fenderwell looked bad so he replaced that. The new coil provided power
to the system but sounded anemic/bad under power.Then the motor stuck on
wich required me to discon the ground to stop, the assem. got very hot
during this buit still operates. Sooo now were thinkin bad new solonoid
wich he will replace. hoo boy, might be time for a swap n rebuild, was
tryin to get one more season but wat u gonna do.
Answer:
G,
IF you have the small square touchpad, with buttons labeled U D L R, it could be
the problem. The motor sticking on is a symptom of the old small square touchpad
gone bad. Could be a bad motor solenoid, so try that first, because when it
stuck on, it likely overheated anyway.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: extra key
Message: I have an 2006 e-68. I lost 1 key and would like to buy an extra
blank key. Locksmith said to contact meyer b/c key was not in his book of
keys.
Answer:
G,
Not sure what key you are talking about. IF you mean a pump lock key, Meyer
does not offer key blanks that I know of.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------------------------
Question:
Chuck,
Can you get 7.5 TM and C moldboards. If so, how much, and what would be the time
frame. We have several here, but they are WAY too far gone to even consider
skinning.
Thanks, A
Answer:
A,
I am guessing you mean ST-7.5 and C-8's since you ordered the nose pieces for
the ST's.
Both ST & C were discontinued by Meyer in November 2009. The last price I had on
a C-8 Moldboard only was $2200.
The answer is the Facelift. You can replace a C with a Lot Pro. Not sure if you
know it, but the ST is a STandard plow, meant for 1/2 ton trucks. They will get
torn up on 3/4 ton trucks as you probably know. The Lot Pro comes in a 7.5
version too. It is a much better design, AND the Facelift Program is offering a
3 year warranty on the A Frame, Pivot Bar and Moldboard, and 5 years on all the
welds.
Check out the Facelift Program details here:
http://www.smithbrothersservices.com/meyer-plow-facelift-program.html
I just got (3) New C-8 "Weldments" from Meyer. These are the frames meant for CP
(Poly) plows without the poly. The plan is to either skin them with steel welded
to the frames, or bolt on a stainless steel skin. They are a spring project at
this point, but I grabbed them because Meyer still had them in stock last month.
I just checked inventory at Meyer and they have (18) CP-8 Moldboards in stock.
The price is $1757 each. Not sure if you know, but the poly plows are built
stronger than the steel plows. The two biggest benefits are the poly skin is
removable, so you can repair or paint the frame if need be, and the snow dosn't
stick. To give you an idea of strength, the C-8 steel moldboard weighs 333
pounds. The CP-8 (poly) weighs 408 pounds. That is because the poly is just a
bolted on skin, and not part of the structure like the steel skins are. So the
frame has a lot of extra steel on the poly.
We just did repairs on two C-8's that are 9 years old, and they needed
attention, but the owner plowed commercially with them for all 9 years and never
replaced anything on them other than a hose here, and an angle ram there.
Getting any plows right now will take some time. I ordered one last week and it
is coming tomorrow, but, Meyer is closed the 23rd and 24th for Christmas, so
that is going to put a ripple in shipping for a while.
IF you wanted to do a few Facelifts, I can do better on the price too.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: E60
Message: Good morning, I have an E60 pump set up. it takes about 10-20 seconds
to drop to the ground from the top raised position. When i tried to adjust the
set screw on that, it dropped faster but then wouldn't hold in the up position.
Any suggestions on what needs repaired? Thanks, D
Answer:
D,
The Lift Ram Packing is worn out. A Basic Seal Kit would be the fix you need.
~Chuck
-------------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Urathane edge
Message: Hello,
I have an ATV with a 5' Plow blade, do you sell urathane edges by the foot so I
can put one on. I can drill on site if need be. J
Answer:
Contact Jerre, at Jerre's Service. He stocks Urethane edges.
(814) 898-2171 jerre@jerres.com
~Chuck
---------------------------
Question:
Subject: E47 rebuild kit
Message: My pump stopped working last yr and the dealer here said it was the
motor. I replaced the motor and the ram still wont go up. Which rebuild kit do
you recommend since I have a new motor?
Answer:
B,
A Basic Seal Kit includes all you need to rebuild the pump. A Master Seal Kit
also includes the Valve O Rings, and a Pump Shaft Seal.
As far as not raising, the B Valve (Red wire) controls raise. I would pull out
the B Valve and make sure it is not stuck. Remove the valve and use a small
pocket screwdriver to press in on the hollow tip of the valve. There should be
spring action on the tip that you can feel. IF it pops, and you free it up,
consider replacing it. Once they stick it is a matter of time before it sticks
again. If it is not stuck, check your wiring, and make sure it is getting power
when the raise switch is pushed. If it is getting power, make sure it has
magnetism using a screwdriver, you should feel the screwdriver pull to the coil
when the switch is pressed.
~Chuck
More:
Chuck,
Thanks for the response.
I replaced all the valves, A,B, and C, ran all new wire, put a motor on it,
changed the fluid, checked the magnetism, used the test light to make sure power
was getting to valves. None of which is fun, espeically when its pouring down
snow and 25*.
The last time I used it, which was bout 3 yrs ago, the ram was leaking down
after a few hours with the plow on it. And I noticed air bubbles around the top
of the pump where the ram is. I ve had it since 1987 and its never been rebuilt
so I pretty sure its bout time.
Having said all that, would the master seal kit be the one I likely need?
-B
Answer:
B,
With all new valves, all you should need is a Basic Seal Kit, unless you want to
change the Pump Shaft Seal too.
~Chuck
------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: slow lift and swing on meyers e-60h
Message: I ordered a rebuilt kit form your company.
My plow is moving slow in all directions , does this sound like the pump needs
to be rebuilt to you , fluid level is good. Thank for your input.
Answer:
B,
How cold is it there? What fluid are you using? A rebuild alone doesn't usually
speed up a unit. Did you try cleaning the filters? Especially the one in the
back, that is the high pressure filter that the fluid passes through after
leaving the pump.
Improper pump pressure will slow down all functions.
A clogged screen will slow down all functions.
Using ATF in the system will slow down all functions, especially the colder it
gets.
Moisture in the system will form ice crystals that will clog the screens, and
slow down all functions.
Hope the info helps.
~Chuck
More:
Thank you Chuck, I have cleaned the filters already , the fluid that is in it is
the blue -50 meyers replacement hydro. oil.
but all controls are still slow I have check all grounds and hot leads. it seams
like it is getting slower.
Thank you so much for your time
B
Answer:
B,
One other thing. IF it is an older E-60 with a single lug motor (no ground wire)
you could have a problem with the motor. Does it pull a lot of power when it is
going slow? The single lug motor grounds where it meets the Sump Base, and with
the motor bolts. Corrosion is a common problem.
~Chuck
-------------------------------
Question:
Subject: power unit
Message: i have an e60h and need a new unit. can the new e58h hook up. any
wiring issuses what do i need to do a swap out. thanks m.
Answer:
M,
You need a coupler kit. You need a wiring adapter. The E-58 does not come with
couplers. It has two wire coils vs. the single wire coils on the E-60.
No matter what is wrong with the E-60H it is cheaper to fix vs. the E-58H @
$1700 plus the couplers and adapters.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Meyer E-57
Message: Does the Meyer E-47 Pump ULTIMATE Rebuild Kit
work on the E-57 as I do not see a rebuild kit for that pump
Answer:
S,
The E-47 and E-57 use the same seals. The only difference is the pump shaft
seal, (and the motor). So no, the E-47 Ultimate kit would be a waste for an E-57
in that you can't use the motor cap in the kit.
The E-47 Basic Seal Kit fits both the E-47 and E-57. The Valve O Ring Kit fits
both the E-47, and E-57.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: What model I have
Message: Hello....I bought a truck with a Meyers plow on it and I am unsure of
the exact model. I am in MN and as you may have heard we received 17" of snow!
Well one of my hydraulic hoses took a "hit" and pinched coming right off the
solenoid block and fitting. I only need one hose but if there is a kit for two I
would consider that as well. All I know is I have a E-60 pump/lift and 2 rams on
the plow for left/right and the blade reads "Meyer Max". I took pictures if I
can email them to you? Or are the hoses all the same on just about every plow?
The plow is from about 2002? The truck is a 2000 and I think he had the plow put
on a few years later....Please let me know ASAP as we are expecting MORE snow
later this week.
THANK YOU! P
Answer:
P,
If you have no swivel ends on the hoses, you want this hose:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104950
If you have swivel ends on the hoses, you want this hose:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15105008
You have an E-60 pump, and the plow is a poly. IF it is a 7.5', then it is
likely an ST, and because it is poly, you add a P to it, so it is an STP-7.5. IF
it is an 8' plow, then it is a C Series, and the model would be CP-8. The C
Series has 4 trip springs.
Both hoses are in stock.
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
Hi,
I have a Meyer E-45 pump that I need replaced. I heard that I can send my old
one to you for a rebuilt one in return. I couldn't find E-45 listed on the
website, so I thought I would drop you a line and see what my options are. I'm
in Michigan and we just got hit with 2+ feet of snow in a day and a half. I need
my plow! Please drop me a line as soon as you are able.
Thank you,
J
Answer:
J,
Parts for the E-45 are VERY limited. We do not do exchanges. We do sell rebuilt
pumps when we have them. Right now we have none available for sale. Your best
bet is to upgrade to an E-47. ALL parts are available, and willl be for many
years to come.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Just A Question
Message: I need to make some orders but I want to make sure this is a legitimate
business. I tried calling your phone number(9732097569) and it went to an
automated message telling me to press a number to refill minutes or something so
i was wondering if i could get a reply and possibly a working number to call and
verify...also if u r certified by the BBB that would help a lot as well. Sorry
to be a prick but I got screwed ordering over the web once. Thanks! -D.
Answer:
D,
Maybe your cell phone is in need of minutes? We have been here for 4 years as a
Meyer Distributor. On eBay we have a feedback score of almost 600, we are Power
Sellers, and Top Rated. I have the awards here on the wall. I shut off voice
mail because I can barely handle the 50+ calls a day asking for help with broken
plows, I could not find time to return calls, and that upset people. So now they
are upset that they cannot get through, because I also shut off call waiting.
As far as the BBB, NO WAY. They charge, and they charge AGAIN if you want it for
the web. It would cost me over $700 a year.
I OWN and operate www.LetsTalkSnow.com and 31 other truck and plow web sites.
My reputation speaks for itself. I have written a dozen+ magazine articles for
snow plowing magazines over the years. I have consulted on numerous snow plowing
training videos for SIMA (Snow & Ice Management Association) and other entities.
I sat on the Certified Snow Professional Board of Governors with SIMA for 3
years.
I will tell you it is hard to get through here. I hang up, and the phone
instantly rings again. So we made the online store
www.SmithBrothersPlowParts.com so people could buy parts without having to call
here. When I take a phone order I pay a higher processing fee for the credit
card, and at the end of the month, I get hit with another fee that is a
percentage based on the $ amount of the phone orders for the month, so I turn
away phone orders as much as possible, and refer them to our online store.
~Chuck
------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: E-60 plow motor
Message: My ground bolt is loose from the inside, how can I tighten?
Frying my selinoed because it keeps shorting out. J
Answer:
J,
You need to remove the motor and then remove the end cap. It is usually not
easy as there is corrosion on the edges of the slots where the plastic
insulators are slid in with the studs. It will take a lot of careful prying.
Generally speaking, if you are shorting out motor solenoids, the motor is
likely damaged too, and it would be better to replace it in my opinion. The
corrosion on the studs makes it difficult to tighten them too.
~Chuck
----------------------------
Question:
Thank you for reading this e-mail. I am trying to make my own harness for wiring
an e-57. I have two new switches, angle and lift, and cannot find a wiring
diagram anywhere. I understand the rest of the wiring, just need switch diagram,
or explanation. So far I've got left or right will power respective a coil or b
coil and motor solenoid at the same time. Then up will power c coil and motor at
same time. Then what? does c coil stay energized until down is pressed? If you
could either answer these questions specifically, or forward switch diagram, I
would greatly appreciate it and would plug your store on
www.letstalksnow.com
(www.snowplowing-contractors.com) forum. thank you
Answer:
I don't need a plug ;)
Raise - B Coil (Red wire) and Motor Solenoid (White wire)
Lower - A Coil (Black wire)
Left Angle - Motor Solenoid (White wire)
Right Angle - C Coil (Green wire) and Motor Solenoid (White wire)
So on the back of the switches the White wire gets jumped to 3 terminals.
Meyer
Toggle Switch Wiring Diagram
Hope it helps.
~Chuck
----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: e60 quick lift plow pump
Message: how much for a E60 QUICK LIFT PLOW PUMP REMANUFACTURED OR NEW IT HAS
TWO OLD STYLE FITTINGS AND 3 WIRES BLACK GREEN WHITE SMALL AND TWO MAIN LARGE
RED. T
Answer:
T,
When we sell rebuilt E-60 units they go for between $650 and $750 depending on
how many new parts we use. Right now, we have none available, but we have some
here to rebuild for sale, just no time to get to them. New, they are obsolete,
as in Meyer is not offering them new anymore. They have been replaced by the
E-58H. The E-58H has a list price of $1700+. Some dealers are still sitting on
old stock of the E-60, I see them listed for sale for around $1200.
~Chuck
----------------------------
Question:
Subject: E-60 Motor
Message: Could you please tell me the rated horsepower of E-60 motor, installed
a new one and it is pulling high amps, like 40 amps not connected to pump, and
120 raising plow.
Thanks you. A
Answer:
A,
I do not know the horsepower rating. That is not provided by Meyer. I can say
that sounds way low as max amp draw at full extension of the lift or angle rams
is typically 190 amps. Reject is 230 amps. If you are only pulling 120 max, the
pump pressure is likely set very low. Even the E-47 with smaller motor and lower
pressure pulls 190 amps average at max extension.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: e-60 plow
Message: my plow will not go down after being lifted. if u tap on the one
solenoid it goes down. is it the valve underneath or the coil? thanks. also i
will be purchasing the sump base because mine has rotted off. J
Answer:
J,
It could be either one. Use an Ohmeter to test the coil to make sure it is not
shot. Remove the Coil and.....
Nominal resistance (ohm meter lead connected to coil lead, other meter lead
connected to metal coil cover) 9.6 ohms � 10% and if it has the square Plastic
cover Coil 10.0 ohms � 10%
IF the coil tests good, replace the valve.
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
Subject: do you have a kit for this i think its a e47
Message: I can send you a picture to confirm please let me know as this is my
bread and butter maker in the winter.. it is also under hood style and it has a
12 volt moter that also gets really hot when worked hard so i might need a new
one. I really dont know what I need but i do know that the hole unit was rebuilt
in 84 and i have only had it a few months so i'm better to just do it all now so
there is no proplems down the road. it still all work's just getting slower
every day hope i here from you thank you for your time and marry xmas. D
Answer:
D,
IF it is an underhood electric unit, it is NOT a Meyer E-47. Sounds like a
Barnes, or one of the ones Northern Tool sells.
~Chuck
----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: controller adapter
Message: Does anyone make an adapter to use the old style Meyers touchpad
controller to the new style pistol grip harness? The pistol grip is really
hard to use...unless you have three hands. R
Answer:
R,
You mean this adapter I make?
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15105078
Meyer does not offer it yet, though I am told they are working on it. We make
these here.
~Chuck
---------------------------------
Question:
When I
mounted it on the truck, it would raise and lower but not angle. Maybe you
wouldn't mind advising me on the following. I changed the C
valve coil and all the couplings. No luck. Changed the C valve with one I think
is good, even though I couldn't move either by hand I could hear a click when
activeated. My next move is to clean the crossover relief, pilot check valve and
piston, but it
accured to me that the PA block itself might be blocked. Is if possible to
remove everything on it and flush the whole thing with cleaning fluid? Or will
the valve cleaning do it?
Thanks,
D
Answer:
D,
Even if the C Valve was stuck, it would still angle left, because that is
default, there is no valve to go left. I would look at the Crossover Relief
Valve, clean it out and replace the seals. You might find a broken spring in it,
or it may be a rusted mess. Make sure the Pilot Check Piston can move freely in
the bore. Make sure it is installed properly, and make sure the Pilot Check
Valve (ball & spring) are assembled correctly. You can see both on this page:
http://www.smithbrothersservices.com/meyer_E-47-pump-rebuild6.html
You can download the Meyer E-60 Service Manual here:
http://ww2.meyerproducts.com/upload/forms/1-667%20R7.pdf
It has a troubleshooting flow chart. Always start with "Plow won't angle
left" first.
~Chuck
-----------------------------
Question:
Hi Before I order a new pump, could you tell me if that is what I need? The
problem with my plow is when I am lifting it it will raise then all of
a sudden stop going up but the motor and pump are still going then I let it down
even just a inch and then hit the up button and it goes right to the top.
somtimes I have to do this 3 or 4 times to get it to lift to the
top.{up,down,up,down} more so if it is cold. I put all new rubber rings in
and cleaned the screens. could this be the oil is bypassing in the pump when it
comes under strain? Would this be the pump or somthing else?
All new oil, the angle works fine, and the coils test ok, would the pump do this
or would the "c" coil be leaking past. Thanks for any information you could give
me. H
Answer:
H,
Did you install a Meyer seal kit? Did you change the Lift Ram Packing Cup?
IF you did, how did the Lift Cylinder bore look? It sounds like there is a bad
spot that when the Packing gets to that point, fluid leaks by it. Then
the next "burst" of pressure when you hit the switch pushes it past the bad spot
and it continues up.
Also, when you say oil I hope you mean low temperature snow plow oil, and
not ATF or regular oil.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: e-60 rebuilt pump
Message: I noticed you sold your one and only rebuilt e-60 pump, but am
wondering when you expect to have another in stock. And also, I was wondering if
you would buy back our old pump and about how much we might get for it. S
Answer:
S,
We do not pay more than $100 for a core pump. Yes we will get more rebuilds up
in our store as they become available, but they usually sell in a couple of
hours. We do not have a waiting list because rebuilds are fill ins this time of
year in between rebuilding customer pumps and new plow installs.
~Chuck
----------------------------
Question:
Subject: E47
Message: I have an E47 pump on my CJ. The problem I am having is the the
plow will not lower. All other controls work.
Thank You. C
Answer:
C,
The A Coil or A Valve on the back of the pump (black wire) is either not
getting power, or not magnetizing, or the A Valve is bad.
~Chuck
-------------------------------
Question:
Subject: wiring question
Message: Hello Chuck, I have a problem. My idiotic brother disconected the
wiring from my switches. I can not figure this out. Pulling massive brainfarts.
Where could I find a wiring diagram to wire this up? What I have is a E-47 pump
with a two toggle switch control system All wires are original colors so if that
helps, great!
Thanks In Advance,
W
Answer:
W,
The harness normally has plugs or a plug on the end. That said.....
To raise you need the white and red to have power
To lower you need the black to have power (your power wire might be black from
the fuse box, if so, the other black one)
To angle left the white must have power.
To angle right the white and green must have power.
The power gets jumped from one switch to the other.
The white gets jumped to 3 terminals of the switches.
Meyer Toggle Switch Wiring Diagram
Hope it helps.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------
Question:
i am unable to find a wire harness from my touch pad to a,b,c solenoids ( e-47 /
e-57) is one available ? do you have a catalog . thanks c.d.
Answer:
C.D.,
Right here:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104801
We do not have a print catalog, we do have an online store.
~Chuck
--------------------------
November 2010 Questions & Answers -
Question:
Thank you for the quick response, I will be sending it over asap.
Meanwhile my old one isn't working now.
Problem: The plow won't move at all. When I toggle the joy stick (+) up or right
it will click at the Meyer 47 Pump each time. No clicking when toggled left or
down.
Questions:
Is the electric motor locked up?
How do I test it?
Regarding the wiring is the following correct when toggled?
Red (+12)
Green (+12)
Black (Neg)
Large Black (Neg)
B
Answer:
B,
There are 3 coils with a wire coming out of them with a male bullet connector on
the pump.
A - Black wire, only gets power to lower the plow.
B - Red wire, gets power along with the motor to raise the plow
C - Green wire, only gets power to angle the plow right along with the motor.
To go left, only the motor gets power, there is no valve for left.
The motor works with the solenoid under the hood. It has a white wire going to
it from the switches.
IF you do not hear the motor solenoid under the hood clicking, it is not sending
power to the motor. Start there. It must be mounted on metal so the base of it
is grounded or it will not work. Your valves are getting power when they should
because you can hear them click.
The large black wire on the back of the pump is ground, and it should be run to
the battery negative terminal, not the vehicle frame, engine, or anywhere else
for ground.
Sounds like the motor solenoid under the hood is bad.
~Chuck
More:
This is interesting.
"It must be mounted on metal so the base of it is grounded or it will not work."
The Engine start solenoid isn't currently mounted.
I Installed an over-sized battery 2-weeks ago, and had to move the engine start
solenoid out of the way. I left it hanging loose.
I will hook that up and try again.
Thanks,
B
Answer:
The ENGINE solenoid has a power and ground wire going to each of the TWO small
posts on it. The Meyer plow motor solenoid only has one small post, with a power
wire going to it, that gets power when the switches send it there, and it is
always grounded through the base. Unless someone used a 2 post solenoid, and has
one of the small posts grounded.
~Chuck
-----------------------------
Question:
Subject: Slik Stik mount
Message: Hello, I have taken a plow off my old 83 chevy and put it on a 07,
however the old pickup had the Slik Stik mounted right through the dash instead
of with the metal mount. I am trying to locate just a metal mount for the Slik
Stik that I can mount under the dash. Do you have any "mounts only" that I may
purchase? Thank You, J
Answer:
J,
Right here:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104820
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
I have just purchased a meyers Drive Pro 7�6� steel plow. I noticed that this
drive pro mold board has holes on the side, as if this particular blade can take
extension wings. Does Meyers themselves make the wings for this plow, or is
there an after market wing for this. Anyway you can help me try and figure this
out? Because I want to purchase the extension wings if they make them.
thanks, T
Answer:
T,
Yes, Meyer has 3 different sets of wings available for the Lot Pro. A fixed 45�
set, a multi-position set, and a fixed 90� set to turn the plow into a box.
You can find all the available accessories for your Lot Pro on the Meyer web
site. Some you can buy direct, some you cannot. All of them are shipped freight
due to weight, so shipping is not cheap either.
http://www.meyerproducts.com/plows/lotpro.aspx#Accesories
The Multi-Position set List Price is $1131.97 part# 08105 - 153 pounds
The 45� fixed set List Price is $605.63 part# 08110 - 100 pounds
The fixed 90� set List Price is $616.87 part# 08104 - 80 pounds
All 3 can be pinned on, or bolted on. They are very heavy wings to say the
least. They are also not cheap as you can see. I had a customer run a set of the
fixed 45� last season on his Lot Pro 7'6", and he loved them. We also had a very
snowy winter, that ended with a 30" blizzard. Not one problem with the plow or
wings.
~Chuck
More:
Chuck,
Thanks for getting back to me. I was inquiring about the Drive Pro, not the lot
pro, sorry, my measurements could be wrong with which plow is which. I noticed
that the Drive Pro 7�6� is 28 inches in height, as apposed to the lot pro with a
32 inch height. The drive pro that I have has the lateral holes in them as if
there may be wings made for them, I am not sure if it has the same thickness of
steel as the lot pro, but can the drive pro handle having wings on it? I have
this on a 2010 Dodge 1500, with just a 2 inch leveling kit on front end. It
really seems to hold the plow very well. If the drive pro can handle having
wings on it, will that additional weight be to dangerous with adding wings?
Sorry about so many questions with what should be simple for me to figure out. I
would probably be interested in the 45 degree wings if I can get them for drive
pro.
My uncle and I are in business with lawn care and winter time snow plowing. With
my new dodge, we had some problems getting the mount put onto the truck. We
called all around and no one would give us any �phone advise�. But when he
called your shop, one of the people there really took the time to explain what
we needed to do. So any items like this, we are hoping to give you the business.
Thanks again, T
Answer:
T,
That would have been me that spoke to your Uncle. No one else here fields those
kind of calls. I get about 30 a day asking for advice. Sorry for the mistake, I
ws trying to go through all the e mails from today and get replies out as
quickly as possible, and I read Lot Pro even though it clearly says Drive Pro.
Unfortunately, no wings are available for the Drive Pro.
Glad a 2" kit worked for you. I have spoken to several Meyer Distributors who
will NOT put a plow on a 2010 Dodge 1500. The mount sits way too low, and the
bumper design prevents the mount from being installed at the proper height. Even
on the 2010 2500 the bumper valence must be cut, or replaced with a Power Wagon
one that is much shorter. When are these truck manufacturers going to really
consider that so many owners will be mounting a plow on their truck?
My educated guess is that wings will void your warranty with Meyer. If they
could sell them, they would. I am guessing it is the weight more than anything.
Adding the wings will likely exceed the front axle weight rating.
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Touchpad
Message: Can I go from a Touchpad to switches to control the plow
Answer:
Yes, on the E-47. For the E-57, E-58H and E-60, a non-digital (analog)
controller will work, but the pump will make a bang sound each time you let go
of the switch and the plow will jump a little to the left. This is because the
motor is spinning sending fluid in whatever direction you are telling it to with
the switch. When you let go of the Slik Stik or Toggle Switch Control (analog
switches) the valve slams shut that you were using to divert the fluid to
perform the function (right. left, up) and the motor has to wind down, and the
fluid has no where to go except the default (which is to the right side angle
ram) when no valves are open. So the plow goes left. This was more apparent with
the E-60 than the E-47 and E-57. That said, the E-58H has a higher flow rate
than the E-57 so it is more apparent. The E-60 came standard with the Touchpad
(digital) controller. The new Pistol grip is a digital controller. What the
digital controllers do is hold the valve you were using to perform whatever
function (up, right, left) open for a half a second after you let go of the
button to allow the plow to coast to a stop.
So to recap., E-58H should have a Touchpad or Pistol Grip controller. Now, it
gets better.... The 22690X Pistol Grip controller has ARM and ALM. ARM is
Automatic Raise Mode, and ALM is Automatic Lower Mode. Press the ARM/ALM button,
and the plow will automatically lower when the truck is put into Drive, and
raise when the truck is put into reverse. Perfect for plowing parking lots.
Angle the plow to one side, then just work the gear selector instead of both the
plow controller and the gear shifter at the end of each pass. Press the ARM/ALM
button again, and it is the opposite, put the truck in drive, the plow comes up,
and put it in reverse and it goes down. This is great for backdragging out
loading docks, or dead ends. Press the ARM/ALM button again ,and it turns it
off. The trucks equipped with Touchpads can be upgraded to Pistol Grip
controllers, as the Pistol Grip controllers come with a Touchpad harness
adapter. ALSO, the Pistol Grip adapter for Touchpad Controller wiring harnesses
has two wires coming out of it. One is Orange, and will automatically turn on
the plow lights when the Pistol Grip Controller is turned on. So you can
eliminate the Rocker switch for the plow lights. The other is a Blue wire that
gets hooked up to the Reverse Light signal wire that makes the ARM.ALM work. I
hope I answered your question.
~Chuck
---------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Meyers Parts
Message: Looking for the 20 pin connecter for the truck side of the plow
controls. Just need the female end that bolts to the plow frame, don't need the
whole wiring harness.
Thank You
R
Answer:
R,
You must be talking about an Xpress plow. There is no plug available, it is the
whole harness. IF the little flip up door is torn off, or the platic plug
housing is damaged, there is a repair kit for that. Unfortunately, there is no
short repair pigtail for the plug itself.
~Chuck
----------------------------------------
Question:
I am looking for a price to have you remove and replace a plow skin on a Meyer
ST 7.5 plow. As I have read on your web site, I will remove the A-frame and
cutting edge. I live in Northeasten Pennsylvania and will deliver the plow
myself. What is the average turn around time on a job like this. I will paint
the plow myself. Also, I would be interested in you primering the ribs before
the new skin is welded on. Thanks in advance for your response and I look
forward to doing business with you. I can be reached either at this email
address or by calling me.
Thanks again.
D.
Answer:
D,
We skin plows in April, May, and usually into June. This time of year we just
cannot commit to projects. We are too busy installing plows, and rebuilding
pumps. I have no idea what steel will cost in the spring, so I cannot tell you
until then.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: plow controls
Message: i have a E-47 pump will the slick stick package deal work on my pump
with no modification?
Answer:
Yes, it will work with no modifications.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Paint
Message: I am looking to paint my plow after I do some repairs. I would rather
brush it on than use a spray can. Do you carry paint and primer in 1 qt cans?
T
Answer:
T,
I never carried the yellow in quarts before, so I ordered a case of 4 last week,
and sold them in a couple of days. So I ordered 2 more cases of 4. Should be in
this week. Primer does not come in quarts, only spray cans. We usually use
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer here in the shop.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: meyers e 47
Message: I have an e 47 pump and it leaks down with the plow on it slowly. i put
a new valve and coil in it and it still does it any ideas? some one told me to
re sleeve it. does that come in the master rebuild kit?
M
Answer:
M,
The Lift Ram Packing Cup is worn out. It comes in the Basic Seal Kit.
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=7119
Thanks,
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Model ST-90 question
Message: Hello Chuck, you sent me some information recently regarding a question
about my ST-90 model snow plow. I was looking for seal kits and couplers and you
hooked me up with the web pages showing your products. Thanks. I just wanted to
confirm (before I order these parts from you, and I did download the Adobe
owner's manual by the way, thanks) that the ST-90 model that I have does indeed
have the E-47 model pump/motor. The manual is helpful in that it depicts images
of what the E-47 and other models look like, but I still cannot confirm, for
sure that this is my plow's pump/motor model. The numbers on the unit(s) are
worn or deemed insignificant in helping me with my issue. I was hoping you could
tell me if I do have the E-47 or possibly another model pump/motor unit. I can
order the parts I need if I can be sure of the identity of the pump/motor.
Thanks for you help.
S in Colorado. ps I can just feel the snow a com'n.
Answer:
S,
If you do have an ST-90, and the pump is as old as the plow, and it has power
angle, it would be an E-47. It should have a large power wire going to the
motor, and a large ground wire to the back of the unit. Then it will have 3
smaller wires, one black, one red (might be faded to pink or damn near white)
and a green one.
IF so, it is for sure an E-47.
~Chuck
------------------------------------------
Question:
Hi my name is D and i have a E47 and my left and right angle are backwards do
you know what wires I will have to switch. Thanks for your time
Answer:
It sounds like your hoses are crossed.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: wiring
Message: I recently orderd parts for my jeep plow.The person I spoke with was
telling me about wiring this up and there was a link or web site that could
help.Would it be possible to send them to me.
Thanks J
Answer:
J,
It was me you spoke to. Of course I have spoken to 75 other people since :)
Here is a simple toggle switch control diagram I made years ago.
http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com/images/MeyerE47.jpg
Meyer Toggle Switch Wiring Diagram
The wire to the motor solenoid is white. The power supply wire under the dash
was black for years, with a 20 amp inline fuse, and then they changed it to a
blue wire with a 20 amp inline fuse.
Any questions, give me a call. You can also poke around the Meyer web site
http://www.meyerproducts.com/TechSupport/ServiceManualsandInstallationInstructions.aspx
~Chuck
---------------------------------
Question:
Subject: ST series plow parts
Message: I am rebuilding my old ST series plow for my Jeep.
My moldbord is 6' will the ribs need to be cut to fit?
How many cans of primer and paint will I need?
My moldboard did not have the pivot tube washers. Do I need them?
What gauge is the OEM skin? I know you don't sell skins, any suggestions on how
to put the radius in the steel before I weld it in?
Thanks,
T
Answer:
T,
Not sure what you mean about the ribs. ALL ST Series plows use the same ribs,
the width of the blade makes no difference.
How many cans of paint? I use about a quart of each. Brushing on is better than
spraying in my opinion. You can build it up a lot thicker, and work the paint
into places better with a brush.
On a Jeep, you probably don't need the washers on the tubes, but if you are
reskinning it, why not add the extra support?
OEM skin is 12 gauge.
Here is how a couple of my friends did it....
http://www.kelsosservice.com/meyer-plow-reskin.html
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
I have a Meyer 7.5' straight blade that is about 2 years old and have a problem
with it drifting down and left when I transport. I'm constantly raising it and
took it in to an authorized dealer and they replaced the seal on the lift ram.
It didn't fix the problem and thought I would have time to look at it but
didn't. Do you have time to take a look? I'm located in the Lehigh Valley and
would have to drop off. E mail would be best. Thanks M
Answer:
Matt,
You have a bad Sump Base. It could be a bad B Check Valve, but in my experience,
it is a bad Sump Base. There is porosity in the casting allowing fluid past the
B Valve. Did one here last about a month ago.
The Sump base has the two filters in it, and the drain plug. You'd need a seal
kit, and a Sump Base. You are looking at a $400 repair here. Not sure about
elsewhere.
Did you register your warranty 2 years ago? What pump, E-57H? If it was a
complete new plow you bought it should be covered under warranty.
You can use this form to send your pump in for repair:
http://www.smithbrothersservices.com/meyer_pump_rebuild_form.html
Hope the info helps.
~Chuck
More:
Chuck, Thanks for the quick reply. I know this is a very busy time for you, but
how backed up are you? I would like to drop the pump off to save on shipping
time if that is okay. The pump is an E-58H and serial number is xxxxx15988. From
your response and reading your website I'm confident it will be fixed correctly
this time. Thanks again. M
Answer:
M,
Did you buy a complete new plow system? IF so, you have a standard 2 year
warranty. IF you bought it used, no dice.
There are 5 pumps here to be rebuilt now. We have an install coming in on
Tuesday, and a Jeep in the parking lot to go over that was trailered here from
upstate ny. The following week is a short week, (Thanksgiving) and we have an
install scheduled for early that week too. The best I can tell you now is by the
end of the month, but maybe sooner, and YES, it will not leave here until it is
done right, and tested to prove it.
You can drop it off if you like. The sooner it gets here the sooner we can get
to it. We are open 9 - 5 during the week, and 9 - 1 on Saturdays.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Hi Chuck,
I have recently purchased a 1993 Chevy Cheyenne K2500, 4x4 pickup. I would like
a snow plow, but am not intending to use it commercially, so am trying not to
shell out too much.
There is a Meyers snow plow I can get for $500. It is currently on a Ford F150
(not sure what year), but the guy who has it says he thinks it came off of a
Chevy (he had to have something welded on to it to mount it onto the Ford.
Here's the question: how can I, looking at the A-frame (which mounts to the
truck) tell if it will (minus what was added to mount it to the Ford) fit my
1993 Chevy Cheyenne K2500?
I will be grateful for any advice,
-P
Answer:
P,
Mounts are vehicle specific. Modified mounts are usally not adaptable again. I
say usually because with a welder and and time, a lot can be changed. We do not
modify or fabricate mounts for liability reasons.
There is three different mounts it could be.
It could be old enough to be a Custom Classic, which leaves the vehicle specific
lift frame permanently bolted to the vehicle frame, and the vehicle specific
undercarriage bolted in place.
It could be an EZ Classic, which has a removable universal lift frame, that is
not vehicle specific. It has a frame mounted undercarriage (called a clevis
frame) with two receiver tubes that the lift frame slides in to, and two
clevises for the plow A frame to mount to.
It could be an EZ Plus/MDII mount, where the whole assembly drops off the
vehicle leaving only a universal clevis on the vehicle when the plow assembly is
removed.
My guess is an EZ Classic. IF that is the case, then all you would need to mount
it to your Chevy is a mounting carton. That is $846. You can use the universal
lift frame, plow pump, plow, and plow lights.
Depending on which plow lights it has, you might need headlight adapters for
your vehicle. If it has square Trucklites on it, then no adapters are necessary.
If it has the rounded almost teardrop shaped Nite Saber lights, then adapters
are required.
If you decide to buy the plow, make sure you get EVERY part of it, including ALL
the wiring.
~Chuck
-----------------------------
Question:
Subject: couplers
Message: How about the angle line couplers for a E47 unit??
Answer:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104759
~Chuck
-------------------------------
Question:
Do you have an E-47 rebuilt pump? I have one that needs to be rebuilt (with a
new motor). I was wondering if I sent you mine, would you give me credit and
send me a rebuilt? Thanks in advance.
J
Answer:
J,
We have no E-47's available, and none to rebuild for sale right now. We do not
do exchanges. Customers send us their pumps, we rebuild them, and ship them back
to the customer. I buy used units from time to time for $100, rebuild them,
sandblast and paint them, and sell them. They all get new motors and all new
valves and couplers.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
I have a meyers c-8 plow in need of reskinning and a e-47 pump that needs
cleaning/flushing/repair.
The moldboard is rusted through above the cutting edge and the ribs are
seriously rusted as well. The pump will raise the plow only once or twice then
no movement but you can hear the pump run. This past winter I cleanied the two
coils on the side and flushed the main cyl. It got through the winter but that�s
it.
If I bring it to you for repairs should I disassemble the moldboard from black
iron and pump frame from my truck and put in the bed? I�m not sure if the pump
will hold pressure from Washington NJ to your shop.
I know giving an estimate is unrealistic, but maybe you could give me a best
case/ worst case senario.
Answer:
We only reskin plows in April and May. We do not take on projects in season. To
reskin a C-8 it is $650, no paint. We prefer the moldboard only, no black iron
on it. Often the pivot pins are seized, and that becomes part of the moldboard
repair, along with repairing the center pivot hole and or replacing the welded
in bushings on the sector and a frame too.
Pumps we are accepting for rebuilding every day now.
Thanks,
~Chuck
------------------------------------
Question:
Hello : SmithBros
Can you tell me what valve does what action and combination of valves do what
action, i know there;s different models
i have a E 60 that im working on for a Farmer out in my neck of the woods. i get
snow plow repair work all winter long
and will be purchasing some parts soon
M
Answer:
M,
A Valve - Black Wire - Controls Lower
B Valve - Red Wire - Controls Raise (with motor running)
C Valve - Green Wire - Controls Right (with motor running)
Left is default, there is no valve for angling left. If the motor runs and no
valves open, the plow goes left.
There is no combination of valves, each valve has one function.
~Chuck
------------------------------------------------
Question:
Hi
I am interested in being a dealer for your product in Calgary canada area.
Look forward to hearing from you. M
Answer:
M,
You want to contact Meyer Products. We are just a Distributor ourselves.
www.MeyerProducts.com
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: ST 7.5
Message: I have Meyer plow ST 7.5, and I want to purchase a pump for it. Which
pump is the matching pump for it and how much does it cost?
Thanks,
R
Answer:
R,
The ST-7.5 could have come with an E-47, E-57, or E-60 unit. NONE are available
new from Meyer. They have all been discontinued. The replacement is the E-58H
with a list price of over $1700.
The answer is to buy a used or rebuilt E-47, E-57, or E-60 unit. The E-47 is the
cheapest, and the E-60 is the most expensive. I have seen the E-47 sell for as
low as $200 for a used one on eBay, to $650 for a rebuilt one on eBay. The
E-60's go for as high as $800 rebuilt on eBay.
We typically sell rebuilt E-47's for around $550, and E-60 units for around
$650. It depends on how many new parts we put into them. ALL of our rebuilds get
ALL new Coils and Valves, and NEW Motors. Right now we have no E-47's, the ones
we have to rebuild are spoken for. We will have a couple of E-60 units rebuilt
for sale towards the end of this week. First come first served.
Thanks,
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Hello, I've been looking at your older Meyer plow pumps and motors. I've
recently purchased a used plow from a guy that told me the plow was an 1980's
version. The plow is the ST-90 model and I was looking for a replacement seal
kit for the pump/motor. According to your photos, the best match that I could
make was the E-47 motor/pump (I can't find any significant numbers on my plow
pump/motor unit)to confirm this. I also have not been able to find any
downloadable service manuals. Does your company sale or do you know where I can
find a replacement seal kit for this unit (provided I am correct in the model #
(E47)? I am also looking for a hydraulic coupler replacement or two (my newly
purchased unit leaks).
Thanks for your help,
S in Colorado.
Answer:
S,
Here is the seal kit for the E-47:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=7119
Here are the couplers:
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104759
Here is the service manual on the Meyer web site:
http://ww2.meyerproducts.com/upload/forms/1-562%20R16.pdf
Hope the info helps.
~Chuck
------------------------------------
Question:
i have a old t-6 pump pump workes fine but hold up do you still sell parts for
this pump i thing it need a new valve on the bottom that let it down. J
Answer:
J,
Sorry there are no parts available for the T-5 or T-6 anymore.
~Chuck
-------------------------------------
Question:
Can I send mine in to be rebuilt? And what is turn around time and cost?
Answer:
The cost is $250 plus parts. Other than a seal kit and fluid there is no way for
me to tell you how much it is going to cost until we have it here and apart. A
seal kit is $29.99 and fluid is $7.50.
Right now turn around is about a week to 10 days. We are just hitting a little
lull here before winter hits and it gets crazy.
~Chuck
------------------------------------
Question:
Subject: Lights
Message: Hello,
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado. When I turn my lights on only my high beams work
and I cant turn the high beams off. I disconnected the plow lights from the left
side and hooked it back up OEM. When I did that I was able to make the lights on
the truck function properly. I hooked the left side back up and did the same
thing to the right side. However, the high beams were still stuck on when I put
the right side back to OEM. I gather that there is something wrong on the left
side. Has anyone had this problem before?? Im not sure if it could be the change
over module or not. I know they have internal fuses that could blow and not make
the lights work, but to keep the bright lights stuck on is another thing. Any
help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks F
Answer:
F,
If what you are saying is, without the left module connected, your vehicle
lights work properly, but with the left side module connected you only have
vehicle high beams, then yes, the left side module is bad.
It sounds like eliminating the right side module has no effect on the lights.
IF the left side is bad, I suggest you replace the pair of them. Yes, the newer
ones have internal replacable fuses, BUT, they also have a power wire that
connects directly to the battery to supply power to the modules. The older ones
pull power from the vehicle headlights.
Your existing headlight adapters will plug right into the new modules.
Your existing wire out to the plow lights will plug right into the new modules.
The center plug that goes to the turn signals and parking lights, and ground
will need to be spliced in, and that plug is the one with a nextra wire that
goes directly to the battery from each module.
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104866
Hope the info helps.
~Chuck
----------------------------------
Question:
Subject: meyers power angle pistons
Message: My power angle piston is leaking fluid, do you have a seal kit for the
pistons? I have a C-8 plow. J
Answer:
J,
Yes we do have them.
http://www.smithbrothersplowparts.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15104736
I suggest you try and loosen the nut first before you buy the Packing Set. Often
it is impossible to get the nut loose.
Thanks,
~Chuck
-------------------------------
Question:
I hope this is the right place to ask my question it seems you guys are the plow
experts.
I have an old meyer t-5/t-6 electrolift on an old firewood truck, since it
appears they are obsolete models, I was wondering if I could use a meyer E46 or
E47 as a replacement an cap the angle hydraulics? I just need the vertical
lifting... or some other avenue you could suggest to rig this lift, other then
scrapping the whole lot and shelling out for 21st century
Thanks for your time
G
Answer:
G,
As far as I know, you can replace the T-5 or T-6 with any other standard Meyer
unit. An E-46 will be hard to find, as most want power angle. An E-47 will work
fine too. Just be sure whatever you get is not an H (High Lift) model.
~Chuck
-----------------------------------
Question:
Comments:
I bought a meyer 7.6 snow plow used off of an 88 f-250 and was wondering if that
fits on any other years or styles of fords? Is there a range of years i'm
looking at or are there parts I can purchase from your company that would make
it fit a mid 90's f-250? C
Answer:
C,
1987 - 1991 is the same.
1992 - 1998 is the same.
Now, if it is an EZ Classic mount, there is a mount you can buy for the mid 90's
truck, but it it $846.
IF it is a Custom Classic mount, there is none for anything after 1991.
For the record, an ST plow does not belong on a 3/4 ton truck, even if it was on
one before. The ST is a Standard plow. The 3/4 ton should have a C Series plow
on it. C= Commercial.
~Chuck
------------------------------
Question:
Message: LOOKING FOR PRICE AND AVAIL. FOR A SEAL KIT FOR MEYER ELECTROLIFT, PART
# 2009375
ARE THEY AVAILABLE? R
Answer:
R,
That is a seal kit for a T-5 or T-6 pump. They are no longer available, and have
not been for years.
Thanks,
~Chuck
--------------------------------
Question:
Subject: lights
Message: i am interested in buying the night saber 2 lights but have a few
questions does the M07550 kit come with a switch? and i was looking at the
headlight adapter M07102, i have a 2001 Ford F-250 XL can you verify if this is
the right adapter for this truck? also most everything on your site for the
M07102 says that it is for the M07224 night saber 1 lights, i am assuming that
it will still plug into the M07550 modules and the M07550 lights is that
correct?
Answer:
D,
Yes the kit includes a switch. The switch is in the Module carton in with the
lights.
M07102 is the correct headlight adapter.
All the adapters say they are for the M07234 Nite Saber Lights, yes, but they
Nite Saber II's are identical as far as wiring. The Nite Saber II's are in stock
in case you are wondering that too.
Thanks,
~Chuck
----------------------------------
October 2010 Questions & Answers
Coming as time allows!
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